Victorian Bodice: Fitting #2 and Inserting Sleeves

Armed with my constructed bodice I was ready for my second and final fitting.

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This is how my bodice looked on my performer. It fit very well, the few adjustments were to the panels on the back, and only to the splayed edges, as well as pulling in a small amount the pouch panel on the front.

At this time i was still developing the shape and look to the pouch panel, but we agreed that a white/cream colour would work well if used for the middle panel.

You can also see that the sleeve fit very well, and after using the samples from the first fitting, we decided that knife pleats would be the best way to gather in the excess fabric over the sleeve head.

The next step was to insert the sleeves.

First I made up the sleeves, cutting out lining and mounting this on the top fabric before moving on to cut out the sleeves.

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Next I sewed up the side seams, and over locked their edges, to help finish off the inside of the costumes sleeves.

I then spent time knife pleating the sleeve head up so that it’s measurement would fit inside of the arm hole. I tried to do this first by measuring the pleats exactly, but as I am not that good at maths I got very confused, and so I wiggled around the pleats a little until i got to the correct measurement.

I loved the way that the sleeves looked. To make sure they would keep their shape I also herringbone stitched some netting on to the seam allowance. The netting hols is shape a lot better and holds up the sleeve head without adding too much weight or fabric bulk.

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With the sleeves in, I could move on to a bit of experimentation now what I was getting to the end of my costume.

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