Before I began cutting out my patterns in calico I decided on what bustle/bum pad i would be using to achieve the correct shape seen in the reference pictures i had chosen to work from.
From my images and the description given by Janet Arnold, there was not a lot of padding worn beneath the skirts, and so the volume came from the number of layers and the way that the over skirt was pleated up.
With that decision made I went to then cut out my patterns in calico and constructed my toile ready for my fitting.
From there we got the performer in to the corset that I made at the beginning of last term, and then into my bodice.
It was a good fitting and the changed were minor. I had to change the position of the waist, and then also take out some of the excess fabric over the seams and darts of the bodice.
For the fitting I also made one sleeve mock up, as generally a persons two arms are similar lengths and shapes.
At the same time I also did a sample of three different types of sleeve heads so that along side my tutor I could decide how the sleeve head excess should be brought in to achieve the historical mutton leg shape.
I decided that the best way to create the shape would be to just use simple knife pleats on the sleeve head.
Then I got on to editing the patterns. I went back to the original edited block to make the pattern editing easier, and then after finishing editing those blocks I could draft off the edited patterns on to new fresh paper.
With the patterns finally edited and ready I could get on to cutting in my lining and then in my final fabric.
Costuming Away 