Public Production:Cutting in Fabric and Construction for Fitting

With the toile finished and happy with the shape, due to time constraints I needed to get straight in to cutting and constructing in the final fabric. This is possible because it is cut on the bias and as had an amount of stretch and give to the fabric, as well as having a large seam allowance so that the seams can be let out.

Usually it is good practice to do a fitting in the toile.

Due to this being for a stage production I had to mount the outside fabric on to the lining fabric.

This meant that I would first cut out the lining fabric, and then pin this on to the outside fabric and then the outside fabric would be flat tacked to the lining so that the two pieces f fabric then begin to work as one single piece of fabric.

This is all of my fabric for the make, from left to right, the ivory outside fabric, the black collar and bow fabric and the white lining fabric.

You can also imagine how fun ironing 6 metres of very liquid like lining fabric is.

I had to cut the front out first as this is on the fold, but I ran in to a little trouble where the pattern did not quite fit the whole length of the fabric, however this is not a problem as it is more likely that I will have to shorten the hem, than needing the hem to be any longer.

As there is a seam down the back I had to cut the two back pieces separately, making sure that I turned the pattern over so that I would get both the left and right side of the back.

The collar also had to mounted on a light cotton fabric, but only the top collar. For the fitting I only cut out and mounted the top of the collar, this is to make editing later if the designer would prefer a different shape to the collar.

The great thing about cutting lining or mounting fabric first means that would can pin the lining fabric to the outside fabric in the seam allowance, so that no pin marks show on the real outside fabric. Mounting also means that the only marked fabric is the lining fabric, leaving the outside fabric again mark free.

The next step was to mount fabrics together, this is simply tacking together the two layers of fabric, making sure at all time that the fabrics are laying flat against each other.

The next step was to hand tack together all of the seams and darts to get the final shape of the dress, without the potentially marking and more permanent effects of using a sewing machine. For my fabric especially which is more delicate and less resistant to needle marks hand tacking was the best way to prevent too much marking for when seams need to be taken in or even let out.

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The final step to get ready for my fitting was to mock up a quarter circle insert to go in the back of the dress to give it more flounce.

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With that I was ready to move on to the fitting.

 

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