Public Production: Toile Making

To get a representation of the garment as close to what it would eventually look like in other fabric I cut the calico on the bias, with a 2.5 cm seam allowance all the way around. I cut the front on the fold, and I was supposed to cut the back singularly but I cut it on the fold too.

Once cut out the fabric was carbon papered to make the sewing line. Then I cut in to the princess seam-yes I was supposed to do this on this garment-usually this would not be done, and the princess seam would make the bodice in to two parts, however as it is an all in one dress the princess seam has to be cut in to the from the top to be back to ease in the shape of the curve.

The right side the dress was then sewn up, and the left side of the dress was sewn up to the hip. If being fitted to the actor it would be at this point that we would decide where the zip needs to start. However on this rare occasion I will have to fit the actor in to the costume in the final fabric.

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Happy with the shape of the mock up, I moved to drafting the shape of the collar, first by pinning on the mannequin the shape that I wanted and then transferring this to a paper.

When creating the collar shape I did also change the shape on the back neck line a little as well.

I also extended the bottom of the pattern, to make sure that the dress would reach the floor over my actresses 5’7″ beautiful height.

Then I decided to also mock up the collar to get a sense of what it would look like over the dress, and to see if I had the right shape to fit with the design

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I was very happy with the shape of the collar, I extended each end by 1 cm just to make sure that it would fit in to the full length of the collar, other than that I was very happy with what was produced and ready to begin cutting in the final fabric, ready for a fitting.


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