Victorian Corset: Finishing

With the fitting and editing finished it is time to move on to finishing the corset.

The first step was to cut down the new seams and press them all open ready for the next step.

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Next we tacked a twill weave cotton tape exactly long the waist line, between the front and back panel. This waist tape helps to hold the strain of the waist when the corset is pulled in, and helps to prevent the corset from stretching over time.

Next 3 cm cotton biast binding is pinned and tacked to the middle of each seam, as well as the middle of the marked channels for the side seam.

This has to be tacked exactly to the middle of each seam as this binding will create the channels for boning.

Next a channel is sewn 1 cm to the left and right of each seam, as well as sink stitched between the seam.

Once the channels have been seam either side of the seam, the tacking can be taken out before the channel is sewn in the middle

Sewing in the channels for the boning will hold down the wait tape, and so the tack for this can also be taken out once sewn.

After this the boning can be cut. We used spiral boning on each side of the seam, and any straight channels we used plastic boning.

Each bone needed to be 3 cm shorter than the sewing line to sewing line length as there needed to be enough space for the binding to go on at the end.

The grate thing about spiral boning is that you only have to cut two links for the boning to come apart, then you get to use this fancy machine to add a cap to the ends of the boning to neaten it off and stop it from damaging the fabric.

You would be surprised at how much the corset weighs as soon as the boning goes in, and how much structure is suddenly gives the corset.

The next step was to sew along the stitching line at the top and bottom of the corset and trim the corset down to about 1 mm from the stitching line, this is so that when the binding if placed on the top of the corset it does not extend the corset too much.

We used petershum for the binding, but the fabric used for the corset can be made in to the binding, even cotton biast binding can be used.

We had to iron the petershum in half and then mold it to the rough shape of the top or bottom of the corset before pinning and tacking it to the corset.

The next step was to stitch it down. The stitch has to be as close to the edge of the binding as possible.

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This is done to the top and bottom of the corset to neaten it up, remember to tuck in the front and back edge of the binding to keep everything neat.

The final step is to put the eyelets in to the back of the corset.

To decide on the positioning of the eyelets it can be a bit of a process of playing around and seeing what fits best as no two made to measure corsets are the same.

It is best to try to space the eyelets about an inch apart, you can also do two eyelets at the waist slightly closer together, but you can also all the eyelets all the same space apart all the way down the back of the corset, it is entirely up to you as the maker.

And with all of the eyelets in your corset is finished. Here are a few snaps of the final thing being beautifully modeled by my class mate.

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Flossing can be added to the corset, this is done to prevent the boning from breaking through the binding, as well as being very decorative.

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One thought on “Victorian Corset: Finishing

  1. Oh my goodness! Looks like a lot of work went into this! How long did it take? I always feel like making corsets is something that I could never do – but then again, everyone has to start from somewhere. I love the simplicity of it too, there’s a certain beauty in it’s lack of embellishments.

    Like

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