Victorian Corset: Construction for Fittings

Before we began constructing the corset for fitting we made two sets of eye let samples that would be tacked to the back of the corset for the fitting. These will be used to pull in the corset, just to check the sizing and fit.

It would be bad to put eyelet in the final garment as it would mean that no changes could happen if the eyelets needed to be more around or even if the corset needed to be lengthened or shortened this would be able to happen.

So a strip of fabric was folded in half, and three 1 cm channels were sewn in. Next the eye let positioning is marked, each eyelet will be 2.5cm from each other.

p1060472

The holes were then punched and the eye-letting machine was used to insert the eyelets.

Next boning was cut to the correct length for it to fit in to the channels either side of the eyelets.

p1060475

During this process I also discovered the dangers of cutting boning, as I managed to hurt my finger, but the task was finished and to finish of the eyelet sample it was over locked around the edge to neaten it off.

With that done the corset construction could begin.

The first task was to mark on the fabric where the busk would start so that each side of the busk would match evenly on both sides.

Next with the busk against the seam allowance line the positions of the loops was marked in the seam allowance and machine stitched between where the loops will sit, so that the space is left open for the loops.

The next step was to also, like the right side of the corset front was sewn, the left side of the busk is sewn together, this time it is sewn top to bottom as the spacing for the busk posts will be done differently to the loops.

Like for women’s shirts, a corset is still right over left. To also help get the busk the correct way up two of the loops at one end are closer together, these must go at the bottom of the corset near where the stomach would be.

To hold the busk in place it must be sewn around. To be able to sew very close to the positioning of the busk a zipper foot must be used.

The loops on the busk can then be laid over the side that will have the busk posts. Matching up the two pieces we marked where the studs will eventually be.

Then using an awl holes are pushed in to the marking and the posts put in place. Sometimes it is difficult to get the posts through the holes, a small snip either side of the hole will help.

P1060496.JPG

Then like before the busk must be sewn in to place to stop it from moving.

Next to make sure the front pieces are treated as one singular piece rather than two pieces that were sewn together, you need to tack around the seam allowance line in the seam allowance, so that later when the corset it constructed it will not be seen on the outside.

p1060493

Next to make sure you are sewing the right side pieces together it is good to line all of the pieces up together just to make sure.

p1060497

Then like the front pieces were sewn to their lining, the back pieces are sewn to their lining. The three channels for the boning and eyelets are also sewn in at this point. Then again similar to the front pieces the two pieces are tacked together so that they act as one piece.

p1060498

Next the back pieces can be sewn the side back pieces, remembering to sew the pieces top to bottom to stop them from coming unaligned or out of shape, making sure to also match balance points as you go.

Always remember to press open seams once you have sewn them.

p1060499

Next the side piece is sewn to the back side piece and the seam pressed flat.

p1060501

Next the front pieces are sewn to the side front pieces, again making sure to pin top and bottom and balance points. This is where you can break the rule as it might be easier to sewn bottom to top to help with easing in the curved shape of the fabric pieces.

p1060502

The final part is to sewn the back pieces to the front of the corset.

p1060503

The corset with the eyelet samples tacked on are now ready for fitting to you model.

p1060504

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s