Making the Jacket

Cut out all Jacket, lining, facing and interfacing pieces.

Iron all interfacing pieces to the jacket.

To begin the jacket construction the dart on the front lining piece is sewn  and the bottom of the lining sewn to top.

These are pressed and then the lining is ready to be attached to the facing piece for the front lining piece.

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As you sew around this piece the fabric get tight and it can be difficult to press it over, so the curve is snipped in to, at the corner, the wool had a small amount interfacing put over the corner to prevent the wool from fraying.

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Then the same is done on the back, the back collar facing is sewn to the lining and snipped in to, to release the tension around the curve.

To help finish the lining pieces, and add an amount of decoration it lining can be top stitched to the facing.

The pocket bags are then sewn to the top and bottom of the outside jacket pieces.

To finish the front of the jacket, the to pieces are sewn together, then the pockets bags are sewn together. and finally the dart is sewn and pressed down flat.

The next steps is to stitch together the two panels that make the back of the jacket. This was down by pressing back the curve of the smaller panel, pinning the edges and balance points. These two pieces are whipped together, before being stitched and pressed. This whipping technique was simply to help us learn a new way of constructing difficult curves, but does not necessarily have to be done when making a jacket.

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The side seam of the wool jacket fabric is then stitched together, matching corners as you go.

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Sew and Press the shoulder seams on the outside jacket.

Next the collar is sewn, snipped in to and pressed out, then sewn to the collar space of the jacket, making sure to match the front with the front of the jacket. Only the inside of the collar is sewn to the jacket, right sides together. Unlike a lot of finishing on cuffs and waist bands where it is sewn to the outside and then folder over, this is sewn from the outside and the lining on the inside of the fabric is used to cover the raw edge of the collar.

An ease stitch is done between the two balance points either side of the sleeve head. Rather than running two lines of stitching separately, the ease stitch is a continuous line either side of the seam allowance. This is a more accurate way of bringing in an easing stitch and is used mainly in tailoring.

The sleeve head is then drawn in so that between the balance points on arm hole, is the same as the drawn in length.

Once the ease had been drawn in sufficiently, due to wool tactile nature it can be pressed on a sleeve board to smooth of the creases and help to encourage a smooth fit when inserting the sleeve.

The sleeves is then inserted in to the arm hole, matching balance points, as well as the top of the sleeve head to the shoulder seam and the underarm seam on the sleeve to the side seam on the jacket.

Pinning and sewing from the inside of the sleeve, the sleeve in sewn in to the arm hole.

 

The arm hole can be pressed around to encourage the seam allowance to sit inside of the sleeve.

The next step is to get some ice wool, and cut a strip approximately 5 cm in width and the length of the distance between your balance points.

The middle of this ice wool is pinned and back stitched to the seam allowance of the sleeve head.

When the sleeve is turned through, the ice wool will end up folded in half adding bulk and shape to the top of the sleeve.

We then pressed the sleeve cuff up on the sleeve, and herring bone stitched the cuff in to place.

The little wooden contraption you see is a clapper, that is used to press fabric down. Manly used to help thin out fabric, where the fabric is streamed and then pressed down upon, this will flatten out the fabric.

It was at this step that I realised that the lining pattern piece I had was the incorrect side for the jacket that I had, so due to my partners unfortunate illness that day, I had to recut my pattern pieces and redo all of the lining steps before I could carry on, taking me behind schedule, but I used a lot of spare time at home to catch up.

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A glimpse at the beginning of my recutting process

So with that unfortunate problem behind me, I got to work on the next step.

The next step was to stitch the front lining to the front of the jacket, the seam being sewn , pressed open  and then pressed over.

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The hem was then pressed up and the herring bone stitch was used to hold it in place.

The back lining was then pinned down and the back fold lines were matched up and tacked along, the bottom hem also being tacked along, and the side seam back stitched to hold in place.

The collar was inside part of the collar was also herring bone stitched down to hold that neatly in place.

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The back seam was also over locked together to hold it in place and neaten off the edge.

With the jacket on the mannequin the lining was back stitched in to place around the back of the arm hole.

The pleats at the back of the jacket are then pressed in, and the collar facing is un-picked slightly to accommodate the pleats.

The pleats and the collar facing is then sewn down again, before being pressed neatly back in to place and top stitched.

With the jacket back on the stand, the collar can be snipped in to if tight, then shaped on the stand to see where the fabric sits naturally. With the collar pinned in place a herring bone stitch is done to hold it in place.

The lining is then back stitched to the jacket and the facing is folded under and slip stitched to the collar.

With all the hard work and cutting that is going on, and to give you a glimpse at my organisation and cleanliness, I have a cut offs pile that slowly accumulates next to me as I work.

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The front facing is then brought up folded under and similarly, around the collar and along the should a slip stitch is neatly done to close the seams.

Around the front of the arm hold the lining is back stitched to the seam allowance, then a slip stitch is done down side seam to finish off that raw edge.

The hem of the jacket is the  hemmed, underneath the lining, so that there is room for the jacket lining to lift and move around on the body.

Then inside out one final time you use the mannequin to help adjust the way that the sleeve sits, folding the lining under and pinning in place, matching the under arm line to the sleeve seam, the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam and the balance points.

The ease on the seam is pleated up in place, and the lining is slip stitched in to place.

Then finally the sleeve is hemmed.

And the jacket is finished!

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