With the fabric prepared and ready construction can begin!
Before we got to work with the skirt, we are a pair realised something was incorrect about the front skirt pattern. My partner and I could not work out what this was, and so consulted our tutor. So as we are working in pairs, we are using my jacket pattern and my partners skirt patterns.
My partners front skirt pattern was completely wrong. oops. We edited the front skirt pattern, cut it out again and the front waist band pattern again, and then had to get back to work, catching up with the rest of the class.
So with that potential catastrophe averted we got to work. The first steps beginning with stitching the darts in the skirt pocket and in the back of the skirt.
The construction will begin with working on the front of the skirt, stitching the interfacing to the pocket and stitching the pocket bag lining to the skirt.
The next step was to press the lining bag over, it was stitched from the right side of the fabric, and so now needs to be pressed over to the inside of the skirt.
With the bag pressed over an under stitch is done to hold the bag to the pocket seam allowance, encouraging the bag to be pressed over again and sit neatly on the inside of the fabric.
Next the skirt panel is sewn to the pocket bag, finishing off the pocket, over locking the seam to make it neater. To hold the pocket in place the bag is sewn down in place along the side seam and top of the skirt in the waist band.
The next step and another technique use for finishing seams that does not include over locking, we used bias binding to finish the centre front and centre back seams.
The bias binding was stitched in the seam allowance, and then folded over the edge of the fabric and hand stitched down, all inside of the seam allowance.
Now moving on to the back pieces, they are stitched together, pressed open and the seams are over locked, to prevent fabric from fraying.
Other pairs came across this fraying problem, where as our fabric, although wool was now women, more like a felted wool, that would be better used in a coat.
Next the side seam was sewn up, leaving the vent open, and sewing on a shorter thread up until the beginning of zip length, from this point, the stitch was made longer, so that over the position of the sip there is only machine tacking stitches.
I left the tailor tacking in where the zip position would be so that i could clearly see it.
The seam is then pressed open and over locked before the zip is inserted.
The zip then gets pinned and sewn to one side of the seam allowance, an initial stitch done to hold the zip in place, the second stitch is down closer to the zip teeth to push them to one side of the side seam.
For the other side it is tacked in tot place and then prick stitched to hold the zip down, then the machine tacking over the seam can be taken out to expose the zip.
There you have your inserted lapped zip.
Time to press up the hem and hand stitch it up with the hemming stitch.
Then the next step is to work on the vent at the bottom of the skirt side seam. Begin the vent by over locking the edges of the vent. Then you sew a small box just below the skirt and snip in to the seam allowance.
On the back piece of the vent the over locking is press over and top stitched down.
Once this is done, you can press the vent over together.
The larger of the vent flaps, is folded back on itself, over the whole vent.
The final step is to stitch a angled line across the vent to hold it in place.
The skirt is not ready to get on with the waist band, and then it will be finished.
The finishing off the skirt begins with the two skirt waist band pieces, interfaced, to make them stiffer and over locking the edge of the waist band that will go on the inside of the skirt.
The next step was to stitch the sides f the waist band down, cut down the edges to reduce the bulk of the wool when bagging out the waist bands, and then press flat the wait bands.
Due to the awesome thickness of out wool we get to use this amazing tool called a clapper, basically it is a bit of wood that you lean on, on top of the freshly pressed wool, this helps to flatten the wool down, and again reduce the bulk.
As we are making only half of a costume each there are problems we come across that normally you would not come across in a costume, where as due to the difficult nature of our half costumes suddenly we have more challenged than first expected.
Whilst making the waist band we came across one of these issues.
The question was how were we going to attach the skirt together at the front and back without having a lot of bulk on the overlap of the waist band. The answer …
The answer was to stitch a corner where the seam allowance meets the skirt, this is to stop the fabric from fraying, and then stitch the waist band on to here.
When the two skirts will be attached at the end the waist bands will be joined by a slip stitch to pull the two sides together.
This stitch was done at the front and the back of the skirt, it was not needed where the zip is, as the seam allowance had already been folded back.
Then as you would expect the waist band was stitched on to the skirt. Then pressed up.
There will be an amount of over hand on one of the skirt waist bands, this is stitched up and then the waist band is turned over and sink stitched down.
It was at this point that I realised that perhaps something was off. Turns out that some how my front skirt waist band was longer than the back, where as it should have been the other way around.
I consulted my tutor and was informed that a waist band could be done both ways, so it was not wrong, it was just different to how everyone else in the class had done it.
so with the waist band attached and pressed, and squashed down the skirt was finished, the last step is to attach the hook and bar fastenings and you are finished.
The next step is on to the jacket.