Pattern Editing: Jacket

The jacket we will eventually be making, is very boxy and will be larger than the blouse that we will create to go beneath the jacket.

Front Bodice Adaptation

To begin the jacket the bottom of the jacket is extended down by 5 cm, and another line is drawn 3 cm up from the waist line.

The 5 cm line marks the new bottom of the jacket, the raised line is almost like a false waist line.

In this process the dart that was on the waist line is rubbed out as it is not needed.

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Next, as the jacket does not touch at the front the Centre Front line was moved back by 1.5 cm. At the side seam, to help the boxy shape of the jacket, the side seam was straightened out and extended by 1 cm.

Next you mark a line where the new side seam dart will go, this is marked by a straight line from the side seam to the bust point, and cut up along this line to the bust point.

Next you fold out the shoulder dart and masking tape this down, this has moved the shoulder dart in to a bust dart.

This next dart space is filled in with extra paper, the the dart is moved back towards the side seam by 2 cm, this prevents the bust from looking pointy.

The next step is to add an extra 4 cm hem on to the bottom of the jacket front and draft off a 12 cm by 7 cm pocket.

This is drafted and drawn on to the bodice pattern, then drafted off as a separate pattern and is drafted in the middle of the pocket line that we drew earlier.

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Bodice Back Adaptation

Like the front the side seam is boxed out and extended by 1 cm. 5 cm is also added to the bottom of the back bodice along side a 4 cm hem.

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The next edit was to add enough fabric to make a large inverted pleat on the back, so this consisted of added two lines each at 4 cm, that joined parallel to the bottom of the bodice, but was dropped 6 cm from the top of the bodice, these lines were added to the center back of the back bodice.

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Similarly to the front bodice, the waist dart gets ignored, differently, the back gets turning into a princess seam.

There are no exact measurements, it is all by the eye, and your own personal interpenetration of the design.

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There are also balance points at the most angled point of the line, this is help with easing later.

The final step is to rub out the shoulder dart and edit the back shoulder as is appropriate to make it the same length as the front shoulder dart.

In this case, we were asked to give 1 cm ease to the back shoulder seam, to give more movement across the back of the jacket.

That is the jacket bodice pattern fully edited.

To finish of the jacket editing, the sleeve pattern also needs to be adapted.

Sleeve Pattern Adaptation

For a jacket sleeve head to have a nice role on the jacket there is usually about 4/5 cm of ease, lucky for me I already have 4.4 cm of ease in my sleeve head.

From the elbow line we drew, draw a new line that is 8 cm down from the elbow line, this creates the new bottom of the sleeve.

As 1 cm was added to the side seams on the bodice pattern, so 1 cm needs to be added on either side of the sleeve to bring them up to the same size.

The next step is to square out the sleeve to make it boxy like the jacket style.

Pilot lines are drawn approximately 1 quarter of the way in to the sleeve from the side seams.

These lines extended from the bottom of the sleeve all the way up to the sleeve head.

You cut this line up to the sleeve head, and whilst keeping the sleeve head in shape swing the sleeve side seam around until it is at a right angle with the under arm line.

Once this had been achieve you can add extra paper to close the gap.

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This is done to both pilot lines

To finish of the sleeve you add a 5 cm hem to the bottom of the sleeve

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And there you have it, your piece all adapted and ready for you to start cutting out in fabric.

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