The Stretch Construction

Like the genius that I am, I managed to forget to take pictures of the stages of the construction phases of the leotard, instead I took all of the photos of the final garment.

All of the seams were sewn on the over locker as this gives the best stretch seams, with the most movement.

The making order begins with stitching the shoulders of the fabric together, pretty self explanatory and not much stretch or pulling needed as the shoulders should be the same length.

If the length of the shoulders is slightly off you can pull and stretch them into the correct length as they go thought the over locker.

Next you get to sew the sleeves flat to the shoulder, rather than having to ease them around an arm hole seam.

As a rule you are not allowed to use pins as they are very difficult to push through stretch fabric, as well as pins will break an over locker.

However to keep everything you can safety pin the fabric together about an inch away from the seam one as each end and one in the middle pinning the middle of the sleeve to the shoulder.

And the finisher shoulder and sleeve head looks something like this.

Finished Shoulder seam and sleeve head

The next step is to bind the neckline, sounds simple, but you have to do some crazy thing where you stretch the binding, but keep the collar flat, then at the end over lap the binding to make the back look like a smooth curve.

The next step is the side seams and like the safety pins on the shoulders, you can safety pin the cuffs,the under arms and the hip.Spacing the safety pins apart allows you to stretch and move the fabric to make sure the seams and lines line up correctly.

It is good to fold the cuff under and zig zag stitch it before you sew the side seams.

Side seams

Then, as you can see the leg holes are biast bound, this is done before the crotch is sewn up, as it helps to sew binding on a flat curve, rather than a more complicated circle curve.

Leg hole binding

Then you sew the crotch together, front over back with two line of zig zag top stitch as this gives the flattest and least bulky finish.

There we go, a finished leotard, and I would say I am very proud for a first attempt and surprised at how much I enjoyed it.


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