The Term Begins
The first challenge being introduced to stretch wear, and so our first task researching stretch wear.
I was lost! I had no idea what I was looking for or where to begin. All I could come up with was Cats and Mamma Mia, after that I had no ideas at all.
Althought we haven’t been given out breifs or the projects we will be working on, we have been put straight to work, learning the basic skills of stretch wear.
How exciting, looking as making a basic leotard.
So as you do you draft the pattern, ready to edit once drafted.
The next step was to draft of the half pattern, but because of the slippery and difficult nature of stretch fabric it is best to have a whole pattern made, and so the halfs were turned in to wholes.
We did a bit of editing on the way, changing the front anf back neck lines to make it a step in leotard, rather than one with fastenings, as well as moving the line at the crotch firther back to make the wear more comfortable.
And so your patterns end up looking some thing like this…..
(Some how I neglected to get a picture of the back bodice pattern piece, oops)
The folds you can see in the pattern above are used to take acount for the stretch of the fabric, the fabric I am using has a comfortable stretch of approximately 10%, meaning that the patterns need to be reduced byt 10% to make up for that stretch.
With patterns ready the next job is to cut out the fabric. It is very difficult to mark stretch fabric and it is also very difficult to pin elastic fabric, so the next best option is to weigh the fabric down.
In this case I used the very unsophisticated tin cans, however literally anything that will prevent the fabric from moving around is all that is needed.
Interestingly this types of fabric does not need a seam allowance because I will be sewing all seams on the domestic over locker and so the stretch of th fabric gives you that seam allowance.
If you were doing different types of seams you would then need a seam allowance.
I have sampled the different types of seam alloances that you can use to sew stretch fabric
Seam allowance would be needed for the zip zag stitches as well as the straight stretch stich. However over locking helps to give a better stretch and does not need seam allowance.
On thursday we will learn how to sew all of our pieces together neatly and how to making binding from stretch fabric.